Founded in 1979, Deux Cheminee’s (two fireplaces) become the dining place in Philadelphia.
In 1994 Conde’ Naste magazine identified it as one of the 30 Best Restaurants in America; Money magazine rated it Philadelphia’s Top Restaurant in 1993; and City Paper awarded it “Best French Restaurant” in the city in 1995. Deux Chiminee’s holds an ongoing and has been awarded American Express Distinguished Restaurant of North American title since inception of that award in 1992.
We spoke to the owner of Duex Cheminee’s, Chef Fritz Blank, about his restaurant and his life in the world of cooking.
Q – Chef Blank, when you eat out, are you recognized by other restaurant owners and does that mean you get extra special attention and service?
A – I try not to encourage that, but, it does happen Sometimes, it can be embarrassing to me anyway. It’s not special attention. Usually, I wait until after the meal and then I say, by the way may I speak to the chef? Or, is the chef around? Then, I introduce myself to them That’s how I handle it.
Q – If you did not enjoy the meal, could you say so?
A – Absolutely. But, I don’t say it like a customer. I say it like a chef. I will say, by the way, I thought that the second course was a bit much, or a bit too salty or the flavors didn’t combine well.
Q – Is it a common occurrence to have famous people eat at your restaurant?
A – Notable people.
Q – Are you able to give me any names?
A – I would hesitate to do that. Lily Tomlin, I think that would be fine, to tell you. Anthony Quinn I would have to think a bit to give you more. Some are absolutely wonderful as customers. Carroll O’Conner for example. He obviously knew he was recognized and he had his dinner, ate with his guests, and then he walked around and said hello to all the tables, without anybody asking him, Very personable. Anthony Quinn on the other hand warned us that he did not want to be fussed over or disturbed by his fans. He wanted a comer with his back to the rest of the diners. They all have their games they play; I guess (laughs)
Q – As part of your restaurant you have seven thousand cookbooks on display?
A – Over
Q – Have you personally read every one?
A – (Laughs) I have glanced through everyone, some of them I have almost memorized, other are used for reference for one or two recipes.
Q – How did you get interested in cooking?
A – My grandmother, from the time I was three years old, by apron strings. A frugal German farm wife. I’m a biologist by training I have several degrees. I have a Bachelor of Science in Dairy Husbandry; I have a Masters in Dairy science, and a MTSAP and a M.S. in Clinical Microbiology. I practiced 15 years in clinical micro. My friends said you cook so well, you should open a restaurant, (pause), and I entertained all that time at home. The opportunity presented itself in November 1979, and we opened. We’re approaching our anniversary of 20 years. The menu was just those things that my personal guests that I had over for dinner enjoyed. I did not try to invent anything. I did not try to sculpt great creations on plates. I didn’t copy from the cover of Gourmet magazine. I cook honest, good food and I use classic French as my template.
Q – What qualities do you have to have to become a good cook and eventually an outstanding chef?
A – Taste. And I mean that in two ways, o.k There’s a premise that I have, I’m actually going to present it at Oxford this year at the Food Symposium this year; because of the technology and the cyber era We’re in these days and we have 5 senses and audio visual has very obviously to me eclipsed the other senses, even in food. So we judge food on what it looks like more than what it tastes. Aroma is something we don’t consider when we’re doing a menu, or a dish, nor is texture considered. All we’re interested in is what colors are available, and how many different speckle blueberries from Lapland we can put on a plate. There’s nothing wrong with that. It’s all part of evolution But, I find that the palatability of a lot of these new dishes needs help. Young chefs that are graduating these days don’t know how to taste. They don’t know how to season. They don’t know how to correct. Here in Philadelphia I have convinced the principal of the restaurant school here to offer a course in tasting, seasoning, correcting and judging which will include teaching the students the vocabulary. It’s sort of like wine. You have to know how to taste and what you’re tasting. This all translates into the fact that we are not maximizing the pleasures of the table. A part of this course will be that. There are certain things you can teach how you can enjoy to the degree something as simple as a spring radish sandwich on buttered pumpernickel bread, with a glass of beer. There’s a way of eating it and savoring it. We don’t savor anymore. We put it in our mouths and chew it up and swallow and say good!
Q – That’s probably because everybody’s in a hurry..
A – Well, it’s more than that. It’s just the entire lifestyle. As I said audio-visual has robbed the other senses.
Q – Philadelphia being a big city, are you booked up every night?
A – During the summer, no. Everybody on the East Coast, cities such as New York, Boston, Baltimore, Washington, and Richmond and down the coast, they go to the seashore or they barbecue outside. It’s too hot. They eat light. They don” want to come to a French restaurant, except if it’s a special occasion. We die in the summer. We count on it July, August, and the first two weeks of September, dead. And then things pick up. During the winter season we seat maximum.
Q – Your restaurant enjoys a Four Diamonds rating from the Triple A and an American Express Distinguished Restaurant of North America Award?
A – Right.
Q – I would imagine those wards are hard to achieve. So, when you win then; what does it mean to you personally and professionally?
A — We have a lot of other awards too, that are less known. We have, for example, a great rating in Zagat. Each one is coming from a different engine. Zagat is a survey and it’s what people think. The local food critics are not considered when they do the Zagat. It’s a people poll. Now, that has a positive and negative side to it. There are people who have never been here or have never been to LeBec Fen which is rated first. They will write LeBec fen is number one only because they’ve heard it. So, the results can be a little bit skewed, but probably one of the more honest rankings that we have. With these ratings, you have to know who is rating you and that in turn affects the feelings that I have professionally. High ratings mean more exposure and generally more business in the long run. I don’t know how you document that, but I think it’s safe to say that.
